AB & BE
Animal Bat & Bird Extractors
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Bats are usually classified as a pest species due to their habits of living in houses. The most common complaints include the following:

For these reasons, many people wish to have colonies of bats removed from the building. Please be aware that this is a specialty service.

BAT BIOLOGY: North America is home to many species of bats, but these are the three most common nuisance (colonizing) species in the US: First is the Little Brown Bat (Myotis lucifugus) which is common in most of the US, especially the more northward states. These bats are small, with a wingspan of 8 inches, and a weight of less than half an ounce. The females form large maternity colonies, often in buildings such as attics or barns. Young are born in June, and can fly by August. They can live up to 30 years apparently, though average lifespan in the wild may be about 7 years. They hibernate in the winter. The Big Brown Bat (Eptesicus fuscus) is also common in the northern areas. It has a wingspan up to 13 inches, and can live up to 19 years in the wild. They mate in October, before winter hibernation, and after a delayed fertilization and a 60 day gestation, give birth to one or two baby bats in early June. The Mexican Free-Tail Bat Tadarida brasiliensis is common in the south. It has a wingspan of about 8 inches, a weight of half an ounce, and can live up to 16 years. These bats will form huge colonies, up to several million members in some cases. They mate in the fall, but delay fertilization, and one pup is born in early June, and can fly about eight weeks later. All of these bats often roost in man-made buildings, and love the attics of homes. None of these animals are actually blind, but they do use echolocation in order to aid in navigation on the wing. They are all insectivorous, catching insects on the wing.

BAT BEHAVIOR: Bats are nocturnal. They sleep in roosts during the daytime, and emerge at dusk. If it's a colony of bats living in a building, they crawl to the edge, and fly out. First they head for water and get a drink, skimming the surface on the wing. They then feast on flying insects, primarily moths and beetles. After a while they get full and head back to the roost in order to rest. They then fly back out to feed some more. They may make several trips per night. Bats use echolocation in order to aid in navigation and feeding on the wing. They emit high-pitched chirps and read the sonar-like returns of the sound waves as they bounce back off of objects. Roosting preference depends on the species and even gender of the bats, but we are only concerned with colonizing bats such as the three mentioned above. These colonies are composed primarily of females. The males roost alone in solitary areas, such as trees. The females form huge clusters, very frequently in man-made architecture such as church towers, attics, bridges, etc. They tolerate and even prefer very high temperatures. Many of the southern bats migrate to different areas as climates change. However, bats in the north hibernate in colder weather.
NUISANCE CONCERNS: The primary concern involves large colonies. If it's just a few bats, it may not be a big deal. However, if you've got a typical maternity colony of bats in your home or building, it can be a big problem. A large colony is not only noisy and unsettling at dusk and dawn as swarms of bats fly in and out, but the main problem is that they leave their droppings and urine behind. With a large colony of bats, this really adds up. After a while large piles of droppings form. Not only do the droppings and urine corrode wood/metal, but the weight of them can collapse the ceiling below the attic - I've seen if a few times. The waste has a foul odor, but it can also grow fungual spores that people can breathe in, leading to the lung disease Histoplasmosis.

BAT DISEASES: I've already discussed Histoplasmosis, a fungal infection of the lungs that results from the fungus that grows on nitrogen-rich bat droppings, but it's also important to keep in mind the fact that the majority of the cases of rabies transmission in the United States have come from bats. This may be because people are less cautious around bats than say, rabid raccoons, or because bats are very small and can bite and infect people in their sleep. Or perhaps the particular strain of rabies that bats or certain species of bats carry is more likely to infect people. Regardless, if you see a sick bat on the ground, don't pick it up, because you might get bitten!

HOW DO I GET RID OF BATS? Bat removal is not a simple task. The proper way to get rid of them is to exclude the colony - seal off 100% of possible secondary entry points on the home and remove all of the bats from the building safely. It is often very challenging, and it must be done just the right way. An amateur attempt could result in disaster - dead, rotting bats, and bats swarming throughout the walls and the home.

CAN'T I JUST USE A REPELLENT? There is no registered or effective bat repellent available. Some companies will try to sell anything - there's a lot of so-called bat-repellent or bat-away products on the market, but they are bogus. And those high-pitch noisemakers? The FTC has issued a warning against them - ultrasonic sound emitters do not work. There is no quick and easy fix when it comes to bat control. It's best to have a professional with years of experience take care of the problem


Bats

We remove bats by excluding them from your building.  This means we close all  possible entrances except for one.  We leave the area that is used the most open and we install netting or tubes that allow the bats to exit.  These devices do not allow them to enter, only exit.  We allow enough time so all the bats can leave, then we remove the netting and or tubing, and then we close off the last entrance.  We then set up another appointment to come back and check to make sure the exclusion has been successful.

Bat Exclusion - Letter of Exemption
Online Application

For detailed information about this permit process, see:
Wildlife Control Cooperators and Nuisance Bats

There is no known repellent or device that will drive bats out and keep them out. No chemicals can be legally used while bats are in the house. No aerosol fogger is USDA or MDA-approved for use in bat situations.

In the past, chemicals that were used illegally to kill colonies posed health threats to humans and their pets. Any company that proposes to use chemicals while bats are present in the attic is in violation of their federal applicator's license and should be reported to the Maryland Department of Agriculture - Phone: (410) 841-5870

When can I exclude bats?
The Wildlife and Heritage Service recommends that all exclusions and sealing of entrance holes take place from September 1 to March 1

provided bats are not hibernating in the building. For bat colonies consisting of greater than 10 bats, the Wildlife and Heritage Service should be contacted (410-827-8612 x. 108) prior to the eviction of a colony from a building. Very young pups cannot fly and females leave their flightless pups behind in the roost when they go out to feed. The young are flying by late summer depending on when the females gave birth. Installing the doors prior to September would allow the females to exit the roost, but not allow them to get back in, thereby trapping the young and ultimately resulting in their death as they will not be cared for by the female. Females will also seek other holes to get back to their pups, making contact with humans more likely.

During winter when the bats are hibernating, DNR recommends that the exclusion and sealing of entrances occur after spring emergence to prevent bats from being trapped and killed inside the building.

How do I exclude bats?

  1. Go out at dusk (between 8:30 PM and 9:00 PM during the summer) and watch where bats exit your house. You may notice staining on the outside of the exit hole and guano (waste) beneath the hole. Bats exit to feed on insects every night except windy or rainy evenings. If possible, count the number of bats exiting. They usually exit one at a time. You may have to station people at different points around the house.
     

  2. Identify all possible entrances even if the bats are not currently using them. Seal entrances that aren't currently being used by bats leaving the ones in use open. Building materials such as caulking compounds, cement, oakum, lath, sheet metal, hardware cloth, and window screens can be used depending on the gap.
     

  3. Once bat entrances are identified, install one-way bat doors so that the bats can exit but not get back in.

    A successful design for a one-way door was developed and field-tested by Dr. Stephen C. Frantz, the senior research scientist for the New York State Department of Health (Click here to view illustrations of one-way doors). Frantz's design uses polypropylene bird netting. Other materials that can used include hardware cloth and garden netting. Mesh size should be 1/2". Openings of more than 5/8" will allow bats to squeeze back through the door.

    Attach the netting to the building above the exit hole(s) using duct tape. It should project clear of the hole so that it does not block the bats' exit. The sides of the netting are attached to the building, but the bottom is left open and should hang 2-3 feet below the exit hole. This will make an open-bottom sleeve or skirt. No gaps should exist between the sides of the netting and the walls of the building, or bats will be able to fly around the sides.
     

  4. Leave the netting in place for 5-7 days to be sure that all bats have exited. Bats will not exit on rainy evenings. Bats find their roost entrance by smell and bats may try to re-enter or hang on the netting, but will eventually leave after repeated attempts have failed.
     

  5. Seal all entrances when the colony has left the house. Unlike rodents, bats can't gnaw through wood or other materials. Cheap and effective materials for sealing holes include caulking, flashing, insulation, window screening, and hardware cloth. These can be nailed or stapled in place to block long, narrow cracks. Caulking cotton, sponge rubber, fiberglass, quick-setting putty, oakum, and self-expanding foam are other possibilities. Spark arresters or bird screens should be installed at the tops of chimneys to prevent bats from entering.
     

  6. If necessary, clean up guano once the colony has left. When cleaning up bat guano, use a respirator capable of filtering particles as small as 2 microns in diameter. Spraying water on guano will reduce air-born dust during the cleaning.
     

  7. Bats will return to the same roost each year. If you find that bats have re-entered your house, repeat steps 1-5.

What about bat roosting boxes?
The Wildlife and Heritage Service encourages homeowners to install bat roosting boxes to house the displaced colony either before or directly following eviction from a building. Females return year after year to the same roost and the displaced colony will likely move into your neighbor's house or building. Bats will readily use a bat roosting box rather than leave the area. Installing a bat roosting box will help prevent future problems in the neighborhood. You may have heard that bat roosting boxes don't work, but failures are usually due to poor design or improper installation

If your bat contaminated area needs cleaning, we proceed to this next.


 

                                            
Does your attic look like this one?

Bat work can only be done between sept1 and march 1.

We are an approved contractor for bat conservational international

 

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